The Outside Edge

Serenity and solitude on snowshoes

Text by Tim Miller, photos by Tim and Joni Miller
http://timotheus.synthasite.com

Hikers and trail runners no longer have to barricade themselves in their houses and pray that the snow will melt early. People who want to do something active in the winter, but are averse to expensive downhill sports, now have an easy and cheap activity to try in the mountains. It’s called snowshoeing.

River Stone Resorts in Estes Park

Maybe the word “snowshoe” makes you think of Eskimos trudging to the Arctic with wooden toboggans strapped to their feet. Nearly everyone has seen a pair of snowshoes nailed to someone’s wall for some kind of faux outdoorsy effect. Those snowshoes are more the size and shape of fishing nets. However, in recent years, snowshoe technology has taken huge—and not at all awkward—steps toward making the winter months enjoyable for everyone.

If you live in the Denver metro area like I do, then a trip to high-altitude snowshoeing country and back can eat up an entire day. Why not make a weekend adventure of it and stay at an awesome vacation spot like Estes Park, where you can enjoy all the amenities of the city, with great snowshoeing country just a few miles away at Rocky Mountain National Park?

My wife Joni and I stayed at River Stone Resorts, on Fall River Road, just a few miles out of Estes Park. Maintained by Ken and Kathy Larson of River Stone Management Company, the luxury condominiums feature Jacuzzis, full kitchens, gas fireplaces, cushy sofas, cable television, and the most comfortable beds in town.

“We’re a resort for all seasons,” Ken Larson told me. “We offer skiers and snowboarders an affordable stay. Eldora is just an hour away. And we can usually get our guests significant savings on equipment and lift tickets.”

All the condominiums feature patios that face the Fall River. When I walked out of my condo’ s front door, sparkling water trickled by just ten feet away. Elk and deer made frequent stops along the river banks to sip the cool water. Rocky slopes and pines surrounded the units on all sides. At night, I scoped out many stars, constellations, and planets that aren’t visible in the city.

I spoke with two other River Stone guests, Robert Hoffman and Brigit Harsha, from Berthoud, Colorado. “Nothing beats off-season Estes Park,” they told me in unison. These two live in a mountain ski town, yet they came to Estes Park. “I looked at six other places to stay around here,” Brigit told me. “But we came back here [to River Stone].”

River Stone Resorts offers free snowshoe rentals to their guests through Estes Park’s best outdoor equipment store, The Warming House, owned by Dave and Phebe Novik. Joni and I had never gone snowshoeing before, but The Warming House’s Trail Guide Extraordinaire, John Laughlin, helped us into our gear. Although we opted not to take one of John’s guided trips, he gave us an abundance of information on Rocky Mountain National Park and its winter trails. John and Dave both assured me, “If you can walk, you can snowshoe.”

Trying on gear at The Warming House

The Warming House is also a staging point for Dave and Phebe’s other business, Footpaths of the World. In the warm months, guides like John take customers on what warminghouse.com calls an “Inn-to-Inn” jaunt on the Walter Tishma Way.

This 42-mile trail links Estes Park to Allenspark, Colorado. If you’re interested in exploring the European outdoors, Footpaths of the World also hosts hikes in countries like France and Germany. This year, Dave and company will take hikers across England. Visit footpathsoftheworld.com or call 970-586-2995 for more details.

Per John’s instructions, Joni and I headed to Bear Lake in Rocky Mountain National Park. Picturesque mountain scenery was visible in every direction during the entire 15-to-20-mile road trip. As we rolled along Bear Lake Road toward the snowshoe trails, smaller hills framed the higher, white-capped peaks to the west.

The Bear and Nymph Lake trailhead’s full parking lot gave us an idea of just how many people enjoy snowshoeing. Even though most park visitors sported lightweight snowshoes and poles, both cross-country and downhill skiers used the packed snow paths as well. Some ill-prepared tourists even trudged up the hills in waterproof boots. People from around the world had come to check out the Colorado Rockies.

On the trail in Rocky Mountain National Park

Joni and I mostly stuck to the trails or snowshoed across the frozen lakes. The air was fresh and crisp. The sun shone bright, and the mountains around us blocked the chilling wind. Long’s Peak poked at the sky nearby.

To test the advantage of using snowshoes, I dropped my poles and ran up some steep inclines and snow drifts. My feet hardly sank in. John had given me some waterproof booties back at The Warming House, so my socks stayed dry.

Snowshoeing with poles was like riding a mobile elliptical machine. Although Joni and I only went three or four miles, we got a pretty good workout. The greatest rewards came with the hardest work. In other words, we gained more solitude and better views when we went further off the trails. However, that meant we had to high-step through the unpacked snow, which took more exertion. Ultimately, the seclusion and beautiful scenery were worth the extra effort.

John and Dave were right. Snowshoeing is easy. Unlike skiing and snowboarding, anyone with average coordination can learn the sport in five minutes. It’s the perfect exercise for hikers, runners, and even mountain bikers, who want to stay acclimated to high-altitude treks during the winter months.

Estes Park will also pleasantly surprise vacationing outdoor enthusiasts. It was neither crowded, nor expensive. Residents like Ken, Kathy, John, and Dave were down-to-earth and sincere. They loved their town and their jobs—and it showed. I watched them welcome every person who walked through their doors. You won’t find that kind of warmth in the big ski towns. I’ll be going back to both Estes and Rocky Mountain National Park frequently.

Modern day snowshoe equipment

River Stone Resorts
2100 Fall River Road
Estes Park, CO 80517
888-234-4747
www.riverstoneresorts.com

The Warming House
790 Moraine Avenue
Estes Park, CO 80517
970-586-2995
www.warminghouse.com